Shhhhh! Its on ninja’s.

 

There is a place, a wondrous place that breaks once maybe twice a year. It has been a long wait, a long year, a longgg winter of small swell. But today that changed, this once safe to swim little alcove came alive. Even the gale force southerly that made most places on unrideable couldn’t stop it.  Most people know it but never speak its name. These are the pictures.

Pictures taken by Paige Abbott